Fort Mandan – Lewis and Clark Legacy

IMAG0048 (640x480)At the turn of the 19th century, the good ol’ USA was still a young nation—and suddenly found itself doubled in size with the purchase of the Louisiana Territory from France. President Thomas Jefferson decided it would be in everybody’s best interest to have a look at this huge stretch of land which, up to that point, was largely a blank page to the European newcomers.

Thus began the Lewis and Clark expedition. They set out from St. Louis in 1804, battling the Missouri upriver in their wooden keel boat, hopeful that the waterway would provide an unbroken highway to the Pacific. When winter closed in, the explorers erected a fort on the banks of the river in what is now North Dakota. They named their log home Fort Mandan, after the hospitable native people who had villages nearby.

The expedition left Fort Mandan that spring and spent their next winter at their hard-earned destination, the Pacific Ocean. They made the return journey in a single season, and on the way home discovered that their first winter quarters, Fort Mandan, had been mysteriously burned. Today, a replica stands in the vicinity of the old site and is open to tourists year-round.

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When Molly and I visited last weekend, the Lewis and Clark Fort Mandan Foundation was celebrating the grand opening of its newly expanded interpretive center, including a brand new conference facility. (Can anyone say, “History symposium”? Oooo …)

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For such a large interpretive center, the fort it interprets is … surprisingly small. Inside the triangular palisade of cottonwood logs, a dozen or so rooms line the wall—of which some are for storage. Gary, the tour guide, informed me that 44 men from the Corps of Discovery spent the winter here. I’m thinking that was close quarters.

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Amongst the many events going on that weekend was a demonstration on how to achieve fire through flint and other early means. “Some of the nicest flint in the world,” Gary said, “comes from right here in North Dakota—Knife River flint.” Knife River flint was a highly valued trade item amongst the native peoples. Cool as this flint was, I was impressed to learn that petrified wood can also strike sparks. (I’m sure that knowledge will save my life someday.) Maybe once I get good at building fire with a grill lighter I’ll move on to the next challenge.

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Between the fort, two interpretive centers, nature trails, and demonstrations, my favorite part of the experience was actually this meager bit of metal:

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It’s a hasp off the journal of Merriweather Lewis. In the late 1800s, a careless 19th-century historian broke it off as a souvenir for a friend.

The two captains of the expedition were charged by President Jefferson to keep a detailed record of their explorations—from the landscape, to the plants and animals, to the native peoples and their customs. This hasp was part of a valuable document—in many ways, the journals were the essence of the expedition. They would have been diligently guarded from the hundreds of mishaps that could have destroyed them.

But more than a technical record, a journal becomes a human’s heart on paper. Yes, the Lewis and Clark journals contain long figures of latitude and longitude, supply lists and data. But they were also a place for the expedition members to express themselves on this incredible journey. Upon first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, William Clark penned in his journal, “Ocean in view! O! The joy!”

What a bit of history. This hasp traveled a continent at Merriweather Lewis’s side, survived the voyage, and eventually arrived in the hands of President Jefferson. And now it has returned to North Dakota, where it spent that first long, memorable winter in a tiny log fort in the middle of America.

Pawnotes from Molly

IMAG0001 (640x469)Let’s not forget the dog! THE most famous member of the expedition was Seaman, Captain Lewis’s Newfoundland. The humans credit Sakakawea with getting Lewis and Clark to the Pacific and back, but we dogs know they would have been lost without Seaman.

This canine is one of my personal heroes. Can you imagine, sniffing two thousand miles of virgin wilderness teeming with deer and bunnies, boldly peeing where no dog has peed before??? I get giddy just thinking about it.

Granted, I was also deeply impressed with the fort—particularly the buffalo skin blankets on the beds. I buried my muzzle in all that fur and filled my nose with the aroma. Animal skins are to a dog what coffee in the morning is to a human.

But my girl kept saying I was as much of an attraction as the fort itself. We kinda lost count how many people—kids and adults alike—asked to meet me. One little girl ran her hands down my coat and said, “She feels like the bear fur.” I consider that a compliment.

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Jamestown, North Dakota: The Buffalo City

IMAG0027 (640x457)Molly and I visited this interesting attraction purely by accident. We took a wrong turn and decided not to go back.

North Dakota has a thing with giant statues of wildlife. On this same road trip, I discovered that the little town of Steele boasts “The World’s Largest Sandhill Crane.” And New Salem’s hilltop Holstein cow, Salem Sue, practically put North Dakota on the map. But Jamestown puts everything on a whole new scale with Dakota Thunder, the world’ largest buffalo. Visible from the Interstate, he’s the reason Jamestown is known as the Buffalo City.

Even at 75 miles per hour, Dakota Thunder is hard to miss. But look a little closer, in the valleys and hills below the statue. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a glimpse of Jamestown’s free-roaming bison herd, including three very rare and special white buffalo, White Cloud, Dakota Miracle, and Dakota Legend. The bison must have been over the hills and far away the day Molly and I visited.

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The road to the bison statue takes you back in time to the old west. Jamestown’s Frontier Village is a huge collection of mostly historic buildings brought in from around the region and preserved by the Frontier Village Association. Some of the buildings were built on site, but you’d be challenged to pick them out as modern additions.

I was particularly interested in the Louis L’Amour writer’s shack. A native of Jamestown, North Dakota, L’Amour was one of the most famous western authors of all time. A display case inside contained a copy of each of his novels.

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Molly was invited inside and made herself at home. She understands us writer types.

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While some of the buildings were museums, some housed interesting gift shops.

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Remarkably, there is no admission fee to see the village. You will, however, find donation canisters inside some of the buildings. Like all of North Dakota, the economy must be booming here, too, because even this little town is three times bigger than last time I remember.

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Pawnotes from Molly

IMAG0028 (640x463)There were SO MANY interesting smells! Particularly near the bison range. I have not smelled bison before. It was very earthy and rich. I would have liked to determine if white buffalo chips smelled different from brown buffalo chips, but there was a fence in the way.

I was not fond of the bison statue. My girl tried to take a picture of me standing beneath the bison, but I made the mistake of looking it in the eye. It didn’t smell alive, but I don’t trust anything that big that has eyes and lowers over me.

My girl said that was okay, and let me sit several yards in front of the bison and lined up her shot to make it look like I was posing beneath the bison. She’s so understanding.

Not that I’m a coward. I wouldn’t have minded sniffing his butt.


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Minnesota, Land of the Vikings … and Special Doggie Museum Admission

Sunrise over Lake Carlos State Park, MN

Sunrise over Lake Carlos State Park, MN

Molly and I have just got back from our latest adventure, camping in Lake Carlos State Park, Minnesota. In addition to some good, old-fashioned camping, we explored Minnesota’s famous and controversial ties with Viking history. Molly’s heritage may be all German, but we both take inspiration from those dauntless Norse adventurers.

Our first stop was at the Hjemkomst Center in Moorhead, Minnesota, home of the replica Viking ship that was sailed from Duluth, Minnesota, to Bergen, Norway in 1982. The crew consisted of 11 men and one woman. Hmm … should Molly and I try this sometime?

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Behind the Hjemkomst Center is another striking reconstruction—the Hopperstad Stave Church Replica. Molly was able to view the outside with me. The original church stands on the Sognefjord in Norway and was built in the 12th century. The replica here dates to 1998.

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Alexandria, Minnesota, was the closest town to our home port of Lake Carlos State Park—and by all appearance, its citizens firmly believe that the Norsemen adventured to the land of 10,000 lakes. Everywhere Molly and I looked, we saw signs advertising things like Viking Plaza, Vikingland Books, Viking Trail, Viking Sportsmen Association, and even Viking Speedway Races. A statue named Big Ole towers over Central Park. His shield says, “Alexandria Birthplace of America.”

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The highlight of our trip was our visit to the Runestone Museum, home of the famed Kensington Rune Stone. Discovered in 1898 by a Swedish farmer, the runes on the stone claim to be scribed by Viking explorers in 1362. Long decried as a hoax and still contested, there is nevertheless weighty evidence to support the thought that the Vikings really did wander as far as the interior of North America. Ja vell, vy not?

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The best part about the Kensington Runestone Museum? Molly was allowed inside! She only got to look very briefly at the stone, but she was welcome to explore the outdoor portion of the museum. Called Fort Alexandria, this museum consists of homestead buildings collected from around the area. The Miltona Stage Stop was our favorite.

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Just a few blocks down the street from the Runestone Museum and Fort Alexandria is the Scandinavian Gift Shop, where you could buy your very own Norwegian sweater, imported tableware, and trolls in all sizes. They even had dog chews made of reindeer antlers. How thoughtful!

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Our time in the outdoors at Lake Carlos State Park was another adventure all together, and another story for another time …

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